Boreal Ballet Gold
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3.6 (3) |
Semi-rigid all around boot. Featuring excellent ankle support for all types of climbs.
MSRP: $155
User reviews
Average user rating from: 3 user(s)
| Overall rating: | 3.1 | |
| Edging Performance: | 4.0 | |
| Pocket Performance: | 2.0 | |
| Overhang Performance: | 2.0 | |
| Indoor Climbing Performance: | 2.0 | |
| Bouldering Performance: | 2.0 | |
| Sport Climbing Performance: | 2.0 | |
| Trad Climbing Performance: | 4.0 | |
| Friction: | 4.0 | |
| Durability: | 4.0 | |
| Value: | 3.0 | |
| Comfort: | 5.0 |
Reviewer: srbphotoMarch 04, 2010
Top 500 Reviewer
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Munge or anyone - How does the gold compare to the original Ballets? I loved my originals and need a new high top. I always resoled my Boreals with stealth right away. It's a shame after spending all that money to have to drop another $30 to get good rubber.
My ratings are for the originals
| Overall rating: | 3.8 | |
| Edging Performance: | 5.0 | |
| Pocket Performance: | 3.0 | |
| Overhang Performance: | 3.0 | |
| Indoor Climbing Performance: | 3.0 | |
| Bouldering Performance: | 3.0 | |
| Sport Climbing Performance: | 3.0 | |
| Trad Climbing Performance: | 5.0 | |
| Friction: | 3.0 | |
| Durability: | 5.0 | |
| Value: | 4.0 | |
| Comfort: | 5.0 |
These are the only shoes I have found that really fit my feet. I have a very low volume foot and every shoe I have tried (with the exception of LaSportiva Mythos, which are so soft that they fit any foot) leaves me with dead spaces above the forefoot or around the heel cup. I size these a full size down from my street shoe. They are then tight for 30 or so sessions of gym climbing, and after that they are a perfect fit for years: comfortable for all-day routes, tighten down the laces and they are precision edgers. I typically get a couple resoles on them before I am wearing holes in the leather from crack abuse. The factory rubber is okay, but resoled with C4 they are a dream. They certainly excel in Yosemite and Joshua Tree, where I do most of my climbing.
Best All Around Shoe EvAR
| Overall rating: | 3.8 | |
| Edging Performance: | 5.0 | |
| Pocket Performance: | 3.0 | |
| Overhang Performance: | 3.0 | |
| Indoor Climbing Performance: | 4.0 | |
| Bouldering Performance: | 3.0 | |
| Sport Climbing Performance: | 2.0 | |
| Trad Climbing Performance: | 5.0 | |
| Friction: | 3.0 | |
| Durability: | 5.0 | |
| Value: | 4.0 | |
| Comfort: | 5.0 |
Overall, the Ballet Gold has been the 'gold' standard for an all around shoe. It's a legacy from the Ballets in the 80s which were a hand me down from the Fire classics. I can't speak to the last it is based on, but I fit Ballets and Ballet golds perfectly.
Fit wise, the ballet gold has a heel pocket that seems to be the direct opposite of La Sportivas. For example compare the La Sportiva Focus and the Golds. You'll almost always find that if you fit Golds, you don't fit Sportivas of that type and if you fit Sportivas of that type, you won't fit Golds.
Resole with C4, IMHO. But it's not a problem since these shoes will take multiple resoles with ease. Been there, done that.
In terms of edging, the toe pocket does not tend to push the knuckles up, but does squeeze them together. Keep in mind that Henry Barber will tell you that you need to 'fit the boot to your foot when lacing, and not your foot to the boot.' In other words loosen the laces before cramming your foot in there.
