Saturday, Sep 04th

Last update08:37:00 PM GMT

Shoes:

Evolv Evo Hot

 
Evolv Evo
User rating
 
4.0 (4)

Evolv's Evo is a good blend between performance and comfort with a stiffer midsole that allows excellent edging and smearing on vertical terrain.

MSRP: $105

User reviews

Average user rating from: 4 user(s)

Overall rating: 
 
4.0
Edging Performance:
 
4.3   (4)
Pocket Performance:
 
3.5   (4)
Overhang Performance:
 
3.5   (4)
Indoor Climbing Performance:
 
4.0   (4)
Bouldering Performance:
 
3.8   (4)
Sport Climbing Performance:
 
4.3   (4)
Trad Climbing Performance:
 
3.5   (4)
Friction:
 
4.5   (4)
Durability:
 
3.8   (4)
Value:
 
4.5   (4)
Comfort:
 
4.5   (4)
 
Ratings (the higher the better)
Edging Performance*
 
Pocket Performance*
 
Overhang Performance*
 
Indoor Climbing Performance*
 
Bouldering Performance*
 
Sport Climbing Performance*
 
Trad Climbing Performance*
 
Friction*
 
Durability*
 
Value*
 
Comfort*
 
Comments*
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Overall rating: 
 
3.8
Edging Performance:
 
4.0
Pocket Performance:
 
3.0
Overhang Performance:
 
3.0
Indoor Climbing Performance:
 
4.0
Bouldering Performance:
 
3.0
Sport Climbing Performance:
 
5.0
Trad Climbing Performance:
 
3.0
Friction:
 
5.0
Durability:
 
3.0
Value:
 
4.0
Comfort:
 
5.0
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Reviewer: Jon
May 20, 2010
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0 of 0 people found the following review helpful

This was my first pair of shoes and I loved them. They did well on anything I put them up to. Here in UT valley, there is mostly edging and pocket climbs and these carried me through learning on 8's and 9's, all the way through leading 11's.

I have a wider foot and I felt that this shoe was made for me. Extremely comfortable, I could climb in these for hours on end as long as I didn't just stand in them between climbs. The heel suctions on, and despite any misgivings I had about its strange spiky shape, it heel hooked very well and never felt like it was going to budge from my foot or the rock.

The midsole is a little softer than ideal for hard edging, but it still performed very well, especially for climbs 5.11 and under.

I gave them a 3 on durability although I don't know if that's fair. After over a full year of averaging at least 2 hours a week of climbing, the sole was still in good shape, however I bought new shoes at that point because a hole had worn through the rand along the side of my right big toe. (might just be because I did a lot of funny foot placement when I was learning).

 
Overall rating: 
 
3.8
Edging Performance:
 
3.0
Pocket Performance:
 
3.0
Overhang Performance:
 
2.0
Indoor Climbing Performance:
 
3.0
Bouldering Performance:
 
3.0
Sport Climbing Performance:
 
3.0
Trad Climbing Performance:
 
5.0
Friction:
 
5.0
Durability:
 
5.0
Value:
 
5.0
Comfort:
 
5.0
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Reviewer: zeth
February 23, 2010
Comments (0)
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0 of 0 people found the following review helpful

edging i've used the pontas lace and it edges better but is much stiffer
pocket performance the toe in narrow and your sort of angles so that you stand on your big toe a lot so this might help get into pockets on vertical or less but not so much on overhang because it's too stiff a show for this
overhang too stiff and too well yeah no dice
indoor not so good because at the gyms theres a lot of overhang which i feel this shoe does not excel at
bouldering ugh
sport maybe for long sport as in multipitch it would be good
trad where i find this shoe shines in all its glory. the rand covers the toes enough especially that pinky that i can jam anything. i feel that they are durable and that the toebox is not necessarily narrow but it has this sort of point and i can get this shoe into tiny stuff and turn and make it stick. i love it.
it will stretch and open up a bit after some use so be prepared for that i buy 1/2 size smaller than street shoe size and it fits more like a bouldering shoe but then once i break it in its good for trad which is all i use this shoe for. i like the softy soft kaos 2 for sport and bouldering because i can just mush the toe rubber all around tiny holds and hook stuff thats overhanging. thats another review though.
for sport the pontas is better
oh and did i say that i have climbed some multipitch 5.10+ old school as hell rating slab in these polished by river water and they were perfect. i can really get on tiny little holds and crystals with uber precision because of the way the toebox is designed. all the focus is on the big toe

 

Not bad

Overall rating: 
 
4.2
Edging Performance:
 
5.0
Pocket Performance:
 
4.0
Overhang Performance:
 
5.0
Indoor Climbing Performance:
 
5.0
Bouldering Performance:
 
5.0
Sport Climbing Performance:
 
4.0
Trad Climbing Performance:
 
3.0
Friction:
 
4.0
Durability:
 
4.0
Value:
 
4.0
Comfort:
 
3.0
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0 of 0 people found the following review helpful

Great shoe of bouldering, The only draw back that I have is the artificial material doesn't stretch, so the size you buy is the size you get ( I'm use to my shoes stretching a bit ) other then that the shoes is fantastic!!!!!

 

All-Around Fave

Overall rating: 
 
4.2
Edging Performance:
 
5.0
Pocket Performance:
 
4.0
Overhang Performance:
 
4.0
Indoor Climbing Performance:
 
4.0
Bouldering Performance:
 
4.0
Sport Climbing Performance:
 
5.0
Trad Climbing Performance:
 
3.0
Friction:
 
4.0
Durability:
 
3.0
Value:
 
5.0
Comfort:
 
5.0
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0 of 0 people found the following review helpful

I bought this shoe for it's great fit and nice edging ability. Here in the SLC there's a lot of granite slab kinda bouldering, and these shoes were perfect for it. Personally, I love the velcro for sport and bouldering stuff, where you are taking your shoes off after every climb. Size 'em tight to take advantage of the excellent edging ability.

Evolv's Trax rubber is pretty sticky, but in my experience it seems a little less durable than other rubbers. Climbing in the gym is starting to take a toll on the sole and rand. I like the fit of these shoes so much though, I think they're worth getting re-soled.

 
 
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