Five Ten Moccasym
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4.1 (22) |
Five Ten's Moccasym is a comfortable yet high performance slipper for bouldering and muliti-pitch sport routes alike. Its the perfect second shoe for every climber and was built on the Anasazi last.
MSRP: $99.95
User reviews
Average user rating from: 22 user(s)
I LOVE THESE SHOES!!!!!!!!!!!!
Size them a bit snug because they'll stretch quite a bit, and once they've stretched out to fit your foot, you won't want to ever take them off! These are my favorite crack climbing shoe, multi-pitch shoe, slab shoe, water bouldering shoe, and just going out for a fun day of climbing shoe. Once broken in, they will smear on ANYTHING. And they slot into the tiniest of cracks and just conform to it so I can crank. I have a slightly wide foot (B width heel, C width forefoot), and I've noticed that my friends with narrow feet can't wear these. And I've seen people with high arches try in vain to get into them (but then again, they have trouble with all slippers). But normal to wide feet, they seem to work well.
A great all around shoe and the most comfortable shoe I own by far. I primarily use my Moccasyms for straight in crack climbing and bouldering. They provide incredible sensitivity and are low profile to get your toes into cracks. You cannot find a better shoe for climbing at Indian Creek.
I am slightly annoyed with the red dye that bleeds onto your feet and other socks when the shoes are new, but eh, they're still one of the best shoes out there.
I really loved these shoes – except when I'd have to heel hook. Possibly they were a little too big, but they hurt for the first couple weeks, then felt great – and totally conformed to my foot. However, it's not fun to be halfway up a pitch, heel hook, pop off as the shoe peels off your heel, and then flail as you fall to try to make sure the shoe doesn't wind up next to your belayer.
I also had issues with their durability – the leather would tear just above the rubber near my toes. And as at least one other person mentioned, they turn your feet red (and then your socks or whatever else your feet may contact). I don't really mind the red feet except for having to mention to every climbing partner that I didn't bust a toe and start bleeding.
I've owned probably 6 pairs of these shoes over the past 12 years. They are extremely comfortable, easy to get on because of the two tabs on the heel, and perform like a champ. Whether I'm bouldering all day or climbing multi-pitch trad, these shoes do the trick. After spending a little time breaking them in, they mold to my feet and are very precise on edges and also smear very well. The only down side to these shoes is the lack of durability. I usually find that the leather busts out right at the rand where my toes curl up and they also turn my toes red(though I really don't care about that).
All in all, these are terrific shoes that I will never stop buying.
awesome shoes. they will stretch A LOT (and you don't get the benefit of tightening the laces) so buy them small. but they're super comfy, smear like no other, and will even work on steep stuff in a pinch.
Great shoe, Ive used this for a little while, and it performs quite well. I can stick heel hooks on this shoe better than with any evolv shoe out there, and better than my sportiva kumas too. Good shoe.
This was my first climbing shoe, and I am very glad it was, the comfort and performance of this shoe let me enjoy the beauty of climbing and also test myself on the rock. Gotta love the c-4 rubber, sticky and sturdy. I found the best use for this shoe is crack climbing. The moccasym allows your toes to lay flat, so when you stick your foot in sideways into a crack your toes are crushed. They do stretch a lot actually, so when I got my I made sure they were extra snug, and after about a week or two they broke in just fine. When you look into the inside of the shoe you can see where the stitching has stretched and made room for my toes. This is a great beginner shoe because of it's durability I had mine a year before I blew out the toe on the left foot.
For many years now, the Moccasym has been a great all-around shoe that can do most everything at a really high level. Of course, as an all-around shoe, they're not real stiff or supportive like an edging shoe, nor are they as sensitive as some bouldering slippers, and don't pull as well as some aggresively down-turned shoes for steeps.
When fitting, consider they'll strech a bit. I've typical purchased M 9.5 and wear M 11 street shoe.
I've gone through several pair and found they break in rather quickly, then feel quite comfortable with a snug fit and climb extremely well. However, after quite a lot of climbing, they loose some of their form - to the point that I demote them from being high performance shoes (comparatively, there are other shoes that don't really do this until sole/rand is totally worn).
Some cheaper, similar modeled slippers perform just about as well.
Moc's have to be the best friction slab shoe on the market. Supper comfortable for all day climbing and a great shoe for climbing in the gym due to how soft they are and how they will build your foot strength. heel hooking in these shoes is not very good. toe hooking on the other hand is probably better with this shoe then almost any other shoe aside from the LS Solution. This shoe also really excells at thin crack climbing where you can pretty much just mold the toe around what ever feature is availible and it will stick. I sized this shoe so my toes where knuckled about half way and they have strectched so my feet are almost flat which is perfect for cracks and slabs.
This is my crack climbing shoe, I size em so my toes might just barely bend (they'll stretch so my toes will eventually be darn near flat). I coated the toe box with 5.10 stealth paint and they are amazing. I have climbed Indian Creek and Yosemite with these. I prefer them in Indian Creek style cracks because they aren't a very good edging shoe, but they are great at slab climbing.
INDIAN CREEK! Great thin crack shoe. Love them!
my favorite shoes ever, i climbed two grades harder with these on. they don't really start to perform until a large portion of the rubber in front wears thin and you can push and pull holds with your toes .
I got this shoe for my everyday gym climbing shoe expecting to sacrifice on performance for some comfort and I must say I am very happy with the result.
Not a perfect shoe for overhang or extreme edging, but and all around great shoe. I would highly recommend this shoe for anyone who plans spend a lot of time in a pair of shoes and needs that good mix of performance and comfort.
My first shoes. I bought these shoes a half-size or a size smaller than my street shoe. I can't remember. They started out great at bouldering and indoor climbing but then stretched out. After that I really desired a different shoe as I had no confidence in my edging. I am now on my fourth pair of climbing shoes, but these are still going strong. A testament to the durability of the Stealth C4 rubber. The sizing is now perfect for an all day easy trad shoe, or for climbing cracks at the Creek. Love 'em. Will buy another of similar size when these are done.
Fantastic training shoe; break-in leaves something to be desired.
I sized at 7US and bought these puppies after my first pair of shoes, Evolv Defys (7.5US/8US), started to wear through. The shoes wound up being the same physical size despite the numerical difference.
The first few sessions of wear were painful, with me having to remove the shoes between boulder problems. No discrete hot spots; just all around constriction. After the initial break-in, though, I found the fit to be downright amazing: tight yet comfortable, and like many have written, akin to a sock designed with you specifically in mind.
This precise fit and the lack of board support produce a sensitive and powerful climbing experience that I've yet to find replicated by other shoes. By themselves, they aren't going to be particularly good at edging. But I think a good shoe challenges you. In this case, the challenge is to strengthen your feet and pay close attention to where they are going. A few months in, my toes had developed an almost prehensile quality that made edging--given the correct angle--more like smearing. That is to say, a breeze.
I highly recommend this as a second climbing shoe for those reasons.
Now for the downsides.
You CAN heelhook in these, but it's a delicate and static process. If you drive using your hamstrings (think of it as a leg curl), your shoe will remain faithfully attached. If you pull downwards using the heel instead, it will pop off.
Another downside is the shoe's seemingly unlimited break-in potential. By the eighth month I found that my feet were sliding inside of my shoes during edging--that is to say, the Moccasyms had stretched to the point of near uselessness long before the rubber was ready to give. Would this have been solved with a half size drop? Perhaps, but I couldn't get my feet into 6.5US even with the assistance of plastic baggies. Even at this stage I'll occasionally throw them on to practice delicate footwork; that said, I probably won't see any benefit in resoling them.
The bottom line is: get them and make the most out of them while they're still fitted properly.
Awesome Crack Shoe, Decent Everything Else...
These are THE shoes to have for crack climbing. They are basically made to crack climb, and so everything else in them is mediocre. They have solid grippy rubber soles, and it wraps up around the sides to protect from the edges of the crack. They are not the most precise shoes, and thus are not particularly great for bouldering. The shoes are also abit malleable so as to fit into different width cracks, and for this reason they are not meant for hardcore edging or smearing. Like most climbing shoes, they tend to stretch out abit over time, and so you should buy them at least a size down from your normal shoes. On a final note, these shoes are very comfortable and can be put on and taken off without a hassle. Overall these shoes are made with one purpose in mind, crack climbing, and they are the perfect shoes for the job.
best shoe for the price
Best crack climbing shoe I've ever owned, although the 5.10 copperheads look promising. If you want to climb thin crack though, these are the shoes to own. Haven't used them too much for boulder, but the heel definitely sucks for hooking.
the best creek shoe
the best creek shoe on the market but for anything else there are much better shoes out there
Indian Creek Must-Haves
The Moccasyms are pretty much my go-to shoe for pure crack climbing (read: Indian Creek). They don't really excel at anything else- they get pretty floppy and rounded after a while- but they just kick ass at cracks, especially hands and down. Super low-profile toe that you can sliver into just about anything. They are also a great shoe for easy mileage days at the crag, as they are incredibly comfy. No trad climber should be without at least one pair.
P.S. Size them waaaaaayy down.
perfect all rounder
these are some of the simplest and best shoes around. i started wearing these on gritstone, where i really needed to be able to smear, and haven't bought any other shoe since. that was 9 years ago! they are a bitch to break in, as they are real leather and will stretch, so do size them 2-2.5 sizes down from your street shoes. they will stretch after 10 sessions or so, and, once they do, you can wear them for hours. they slip on and off easily, they are super sensitive, yet sturdy enough for some edging, and the friction is amazing. what i truly love about them is that i can relax my foot, making smearing much more solid.
their drawbacks are few, but do exist. while i can heel hook in them, it is not terribly secure, as these are slippers and can come off the heel. they are slip lasted, so lots of supermicro edges will make your feet tired. and the red leather never fails to make my feet look like i've some funky fungus.
overall, a great shoe at a reasonable price.
A Classic
As began wearing these as prototypes and they're still my favorite overall shoe across the board. There are definitely boots that do a better job at certain things but if you climb all types of rock and need to pick one, this should still be it as far as I can tell.
Buy them VERY small as they stretch like mad. I go 2.5 sized down from my street shoe. Takes a while to break them in but, once they do, you'll get a ton of wear out of them. Like most boots, their time for your highest end climbing is limited but beyond this you get a super sensitive, ultra comfortable boot that will work for any situation. If you fit them tight they seem to stop stretching to the poiint where they will take resoles well, which is almost unheard of for a slipper. I've resoled some numerous times and they'll perform well until the uppers completely disintigrate.
Oh, one thing not on the scale is heel hooking, which is not this boots forte
Good old standby
These were some of the first shoes I owned when they were introduced back in the early/mid 90's. The best part about these shoes is that they haven't changed one bit from the original design. That should tell you something about how rad they are. Can't mess around with greatness.


















