These are great shoes for limestone pocket climbing. I have used them for about three years now without any problems. I have had them resoled once and it brought these shoes back to life. For over-hanging terrain these shoes perform amazingly. I also have a pair of La Sportiva Miuras, and the Magos are my go to shoe for anything over-hanging. They toe into pockets perfectly, and with the down-turned toe they allow you to pull in with your toes to keep you on the rock. I would disagree with other reviewers on their small pocket use as I have found mine to work really well in that regard.They edge very nicely. The rubber is sticky, but not so soft it feels like you are slipping around when it gets hot. The lacing keeps your foot locked in and you can feel more support underfoot when standing on your toes. They smear really well, until you to anything less than vertical and then it becomes a pain to try and keep your heels down to get more rubber on the rock. The heel pockets is snug on my foot and is great for hooking. I have them sized really tightly and at first hurt a lot, but have stretched slightly and fit very nicely, although I wouldn't wear them for more than one pitch at a time. The size has rubbed off of the Magos, but I believe they were 43.5 and I wear a size 43 Miura and 11.5 street shoe.

Obviously I don't trad climb in them and I don't have a gym to climb in, so I have no idea how they would work, but I am assuming they would work well. For what I paid, they have more than served their purpose and are a really great shoe. I would recommend them to anyone looking to climb steep pockets!

great fit. great basic shoe. easy to break in and maintains a great fit.

I have to say this is one of my favorite shoes to date. I have been demoing a pair in Japan for the past 3 weeks and could not be happier with this shoe. right out of the box this shoe is very tight and takes about a week to break in. The break in period is not as painful as other shoes I have worn. size wise i wear street shoe size 45 in la sportiva running shoes and i wear 41.5 la sportiva solutions. The Mago is sized a bit bigger adn fits the same as the solution in a size 43 not: toes are fully knuckled. I personally feel that this shoe is more comfortable than the Solution or other downturned shoes i have worn and seems to fit to my foot better, of course everyone has different feet.

This shoe really excells at steep edging, bring the dime edges all day long in this shoe because the pu platform and blunted toe will eat them up.

Pocket performance is alright nothing to right home about but not terrible either.

Overhangs as stated befor are great in this shoe. The Mago has a low cut ankle which gives you ultimate motion control over your foot. THe shoe is really soft in the mid foot and heal area making a joy to do fancy foot work with weather it be toe/heel hooking or crazy drop knees. at the same time it has the same platform as the LS solution so when you need to pull it's got all the power in the world.

Bouldering or sport climbing, these shoes are great. They have all the power with all the sensitivity and they are comfortable. I actually just did my first 11.B onsight in these shoes this weekend and have put up several V7 and V8 boulder problems in them. So it's comfortable for long sport routes even when completly knuckling toes it's sensitive as all get out so you can feel those microscopic foot holds and it has the platform so you got all the power to stand on them when you find em.

I marked this shoe down for indoor performance by one star because I feel Evolv and 5.TEN rubber sticks to plastic holds far better, aside from that performs with the best of them.

I would never try and climb cracks in this shoe. There are plenty of sporty trad routes out there, you know the ones that are essentially sport climbs you can protect. I've climbed a few of them in these and they were great. I Marked the shoe only three stars for this because most people think trad and they think cracks which is a no go.

The friction on these shoes is great outdoors on granite sandstone and volcanic. It's alright on limestone and chert. It's not so hot on plastic. 4 stars in my book.

great leather and stitching. i can see this shoe holding up to several resoles, and the xs grip rubber lasts a long time.

Great shoe if it fits go ahead and get them.

i would never try to go trad climbing in this shoe

good shoes overall but the blunt toe makes it hard to get much out of smaller pockets

Fantastic fit (no dead space in the heel), awesome edging performance. The best shoe for everything but low angle slabs (it's downturned so you don't get any friction there) and cracks. I actually never tried sticking them in cracks but I imagine that it would be a very painful experience because of the way your toes are bent in the shoe.
The best shoe for hard sport climbing and bouldering!

I am a climber and climbing coach with 15 years of climbing experience, climbing up to 8b+ and I believe this to be one of the best sport climbing shoes on the market currently.

The lacing system and fit is fantastic(*). Of course, fit varies from person to person but for me, they are great. One of the best aspects is the build quality. I believe this is one of the best made shoes around. Durability is insane! I cycle my shoes depending on the climbing, however I am still wearing a pair I bought in 2007. They have had one resole and retain most of their shape and structure. It's pretty amazing.

*The only downside in the fit is the baggy heel. Scarpa need to redesign the heel of this boot and remove some of the dead space, as I've never seen one climber who actually fills out the heel. I would like to see a heel similar to a La Sportiva Solution on this boot.

I have at least one client who uses these as her trad shoes and swears by them for sustained crack climbing. Believe it or not!

Vibram XS grip rubber is fantastic, particularly as it's slightly stiffer than some other rubbers and won't roll off small edges (same rubber as La Sportiva uses on the Muira, etc.).

Lee Cujes
www.upskillclimbing.com

chaussons hypers précis, pointe vraiment plongeante qui offre une puissance impressionnante.
le confort est tout à fait honorable pour ce type de chaussons grâce à ses finitions remarquables et sa tige en cuir (l'italian way of shoes). on remarquera, surpris, la qualité des quarts externes, qui, malgré l'asymétrie prononcée, restent parfaitement performant.
un Grand chausson à prendre près du pied...