Haven't managed to break them in very quickly at all. I've been out on them for 3 weekends and I'm still trying to get them to stretch out at little. otherwise I'm real happy with their ability to preform especially in Joshua Tree on some of the longer routes and multi pitch stuff that is out there. Really happy with their ability to climb in cracks.

A well built shoe. Use it mostly for trad and gym climbing, it's held up very well over the last year. Very comfortable for all day climbing.

Heel is a bit weak and difficult for hooking so it has a low overhang performance.

The Techno is basically a beefed up Mythos, more stiffness for all day comfort in all those cracks you'll want to climb in these. Otherwise they are very similar, they lace down to the toe (but aren't an all day process to re-lace), the tighter you pull on the laces the smaller the shoe will feel (the Mythos laces go around your heel, the techno uses a clever webbing design that works better), and they fit low volume (euro style) feet extremely well.

If you are looking for an easy trad climbing shoe (long days of 4.8-10-) this is the shoe for you. They are also a decent all around shoe, so if you plan on doing all types of climbing get these, size them on the snug side and you can adjust how tight you want them.

This was the first shoe i bought when i started climbing. I would say that is a great beginner shoe because the routes that you will be doing as a beginner this shoe will be awesome. This shoe is typically more of a trad (traditional) shoe which means it is more comfortable. I was able to use these for almost an entire year of climbing 3-4 times a week without anything breaking on them. The only downside to prolonged use was that the rubber became not very sticky and edging became near to impossible, that and they became kind of smelly but that could have been my fault. I started climbing 5.7's and have done 3-4 5.11's in this shoe as well as bouldered up to v4, they have worked terific in the time that i have had them. I would recommend them for a first buy because they will be able to provide enough all around until you figure out exactly what type of shoe you like and want. However, again after long use these will not be enough to get you up harder routes due to not being able to edge fully, you will be working much harder and holds under your feet will hurt slightly. These shoes served me well in the time i had them.

my opinion of edging may be skewed since i had these shoes for so long and when i was a beginner edging wasn't that important and can only rate how the edge is now after a year of use, and let me say mall holds are near to impossible after a year of use on this shoe. However im sure can be said for almost any shoe.

I bought these some months ago just because I needed some shoes that would fit my heel. The technos replaced my thunders and I was amazed how good this shoe is. I have a very small heel and narrow feet and I LOVE the heel of the techno!

The edging performance is great! It smears pretty good as well but if you're planing to buy these, look out for models with the new XS Edge-sole cause the Grip XS, that these used to come with isn't durable at all!


I only used these in the gym, so no idea how they perform outside but if you're eyeing the thunder (every shop in my area has them and many people wear them) go for the techno instead, it's worth it.

These do stretch. When I bought them I could barely wear them for an entire route, now they are fine but it takes like for ever to wear them in. They are still not comfortable mainly because of the seams do to the lace-up. Buy them very small if you want them for hard sport routes, for multi-pitches, be more conservative.

Scarpa says "you'll love them as much as your own mama" well, I would love a velcro-version even more, too bad there isn't one (yet). Cause this is like the only shoe that seems to fit me AND performs well.

I've been climbing (mostly trad) primarily in the mythos for almost ten years now. I love 'em, but heard that the Technos were an improvement, so I decided to give them a try. I'm very pleased so far!

For cracks: the Technos give more foot support than the Mythos, but really, performance here is a wash. For wide cracks, the stiffer Techno would be my choice though. Heel-toeing or inverting in a pair of Mythos never felt very good.

For edging: this is where the Technos really shine... far superior to the Mythos in the edging department. When you really need some power in your toes, these shoes deliver.

For smearing: you'd think that the shoes better at edging would be worse at smearing, but I haven't noticed a difference.

Comfort: The Technos are a more structured shoe, whereas the Mythos are more slipper-like, so they stretch to your foot a little better. For me, the Mythos are just a hair more comfortable. On the other hand, the Mythos get sloppy way faster than the Technos do.

Construction: The construction of the Technos will most certainly outlast a pair of Mythos. The seams and laces on the Technos aren't going to get as chewed up when jamming like the Mythos do. Also, the rands on the Technos seem to stay glued on, whereas the rands on my Mythos always start to peel away.

Should you buy them? If you find yourself climbing trad routes where you need to stand on small holds... yes, you should. I'm no expert climber, but I've been slowly ticking off 5.11 routes of all types in places like Tuolumne, Yos. Valley, Jtree, and Tahquitz/Suicide in these shoes, and I do notice a difference. I imagine they would also be great on the edgy face routes in places like Red Rocks too. I don't think you'll be disappointed.