The Pro Picks…
Alex Megos Climbing Shoes.
With superhuman strength and bones of rubber, Megos’ climbing style is a thing of beauty. But who is he sponsored by and what’s his climbing shoe of choice?
His Top Pick
Megos top shoe, used for big sport sends and competition climbing.
The shoe of choice when it comes to step smeary boulder problems.
A lesser used shoe, but a favorite when techie footwork is required.
The Tenaya one-shoe wonder, is used for training and easier climbing days.
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He may have lost his title as a 9c crusher after the downgrade of Bibliographie in 2021, but there’s no mistaking that Alex Megos is part of the world-class climbing royalty. Of the 35 million rock wrestlers on this planet, as of 2022, only 9 people have ever climbed 9b+, and he has done it not once, but twice.
If you have been following Alex’s competitive career – or just keeping tabs on his Instagram – you will already know that Megos is one of the strongest, and most ridiculously flexible, climbers out there. His contact strength is the stuff of dreams and has helped him to earn the reputation as one of the best onsight climbers on the planet, with not one, but three onsight ascents of 9a. Compare that to Ondra’s mere two successful 9a onsights, and you realize that this guy is more than capable of going toe-to-toe with the best of them.
And to keep those feet clinging to the hardest sport routes and boulder problems this planet has to offer, Magos needs to have a lot of confidence in his trusty climbing shoes, which begs the question, what shoes does Alex Megos wear? Here’s what you need to know.
What Shoes Does Alex Megos Use?
Tenaya has been a long-time sponsor for most of Megos’ climbing career, so it’s not exactly a surprise that he wears Tenaya shoes for all his on-wall activities. From his iconic ascents and World Cup appearances to training sessions and mess-around days, a pair of Tenaya climbing shoes is never far away.
After taking a look back on Megos’ career, I have discovered his four most used shoes. Let’s take a look!
His Top Pick
Edging - 9/10
Smearing - 7/10
Steep Terrain - 8/10
Comfort - 9/10
Sensitivity - 7/10
Value For Money - 9/10
- Very comfortable
- Good all-around performance
- Unique closure
- Heel can be a little baggy
- Minimal toe rand
USED FOR: Bibliographie (9b+), Perfecto Mundo (9b+), First Round First Minute (9b)
When comes to his biggest ascents, the Iati is the shoe Megos turns to.
The Iati is one of the best all-around performers in the Tenaya lineup and has helped plenty of pro and amateur climbers top out their tough projects, Megos included. After getting our hands on this shoe and putting it through its paces, it’s easy to see why this German crusher regularly relies on this shoe.
Remember his 9b+ ascent of Bibliographie in August 2020? The route was initially bolted in 2009 by Ethan Pringle but when unclimbed until Megos finally gave this line its first ascent. The Iati was his shoe of choice for this route for the three years of projecting, as well as the final ascent.
Other big ascents include Perfecto Mundo, First Round First Minute, and First Ley.
USED FOR: Ratstaman Vibrations (9b), The Full Journey (9b), Red Ram (9a+)
Tenaya’s latest creation, the Indalo, might have only hit the shelves in 2022, but that hasn’t stopped Megos from already bagging some noteworthy ascents in them. The Indalo seems to have become a popular shoe in the Megos camp, being used for both of his 9b ascents in 2022 and an array of double-digit boulder problems.
The Indalo is designed to reign supreme in the world of bouldering and steep indoor climbing. The shoe builds on the success of Tenaya’s former new performance shoe, the Mastia, offering a lower-volume variation with a slightly stiffer toe box.
Used for: Fight Club, Wheel of Life, Lucid Dreaming
When the overhangs get gnarly, Megos unleashes the Oasi. This shoe has been a part of the Tenaya line-up for almost a decade and is favored by other big-time Tenaya athletes like Jimmy Webb and Chris Sharma.
The Oasi shares many of the same features as the Iati, with a few slight differences. They both have that winning comfort and superior fit, but the main difference is the precision lacing system, as well as the Iati, provides a slightly better fit for lower-volume feet.
Tenaya says that the Oasi is a slightly softer alternative to the Iati, both shoes use the same midsole and 3.5mm of Vibram Xs Grip. Either way, this is still a great shoe, and I am sure Megos will back us up on that one, having established Canada’s hardest sport climb using the Oasi.
For Small Edges
USED FOR: Jungle Boogie, Hard-Life, Super Crackinette
The final climbing shoe in Alex Megos’ kit bag is the Tenaya Tarifa. While he seems to use the Tarifa less than the previously mentioned shoes, Megos still has space for them in his arsenal.
Megos seemed to use the Tarifa a lot more frequently before the release of the Iati, but that doesn’t mean this shoe is completely redundant. If you follow Megos on Instagram, you will notice plenty of appearances from this shoe, especially when he’s balancing on a ridiculous micro-edge. Here’s a photo of him taking a massive whipper of Rodan with a pair of Tarifas.