Last updated on April 26th, 2023 at 12:39 am
Your ability to climb hard comes down to much more than how hard you can pull on a crimp. While there is a direct correlation between climbing V11 and hanging on an 18mm edge with one arm, being able to climb to your full potential comes down to the delicate balance between technique, mental aptitude, and physical strength.
That said, if you think your fingers and forearms could benefit from a bit of supplemental training, then a hangboard is the perfect apparatus for super-strong fingers!
These simple tools allow you to use a variety of edge types and grip positions to train a variety of upper body muscle groups. So whether you want to be able to hold onto smaller holds or build some awesome power endurance, it can all be done with the help of a hangboard.
Many hangboards are designed to be mounted on a permanent fixture, which usually means drilling holes into your wall or building a dedicated structure to house your hangboard.
For those of us who travel, don’t want to hack holes into your walls, or just simply don’t have the space for a permanent training setup, a portable hangboard can make for a brilliant alternative. Don’t forget that a travel hangboard can be packed up for the crag and used as a warm-up tool before pulling onto your project.
THE TOP THREE
Triangle
One of the smallest hangboards around with a great variety of grips.
Rock Rings
Budget friendly and facilitates varied training, the Rock Rings are top training tool.
Station
One of the most versatile portable fingerboards ever made.
The Best Portable Hangboards in 2023
Here, I want to share with you ten of the best portable hangboards currently available in 2023. For my shortlist, I have dug deep into the different designs, price points, and grip variety each mini hangboards has to offer.
HEADS UP: Remember that fingerboarding puts a lot of strain on your fingers and should only be used by experienced climbers. Make sure you are familiar with training protocols and have some good climbing experience under your belt before embarking on an intense hangboarding training program.
Nearly 50% of all climbing injuries involve the fingers. Tendon injuries are a real risk with overzealous fingerboarding and can leave you sitting on the sidelines for a couple of months, if not longer. Young guns under the age of 18 or who are still growing should try and stay clear of hangboards or any exercises that put excessive strain on their fingers.
Here are a few of our favorite lace for every occasion.
MY TOP PICK
Problemsolver Station
The ProblemSolver Station is the hangboard for climbers that are serious about training whilst on the go. The Station is an extremely impressive piece of kit that offers the most training diversity and customization I have ever seen in a portable fingerboard.
This board is made up of three standard edge sizes for the 4-finger pockets (24mm, 18mm, and 14mm). It also has a set of two finger pockets and a central hold for one arm hangs.
However, standard features of the Station are just the tip of the iceberg of what the Station is capable of. Thanks to the Problemsolver accessories, your on-the-go training can start to become extremely diverse. The Problemsolver inserts (2mm, 3mm, 4mm & 5mm) are all compatible with the 4-finger pockets, allowing you to make each edge smaller and giving you 14 different edge sizes to play with. On top of that, there are two add-on rungs (12mm and 16mm) that can extend the edges even further.
Another brilliant accessory is the half dome add-ons (10cm and 8cm), which allow you to train pinch and sloper grips, the only portable hangboard I have seen that offers this feature.
The methods of mounting the board are just as versatile as its grip edges and features. The adjustable straps can be used together as a double mounting system, or individually in the center of the board, for a single mounting system that is perfect for hanging at the crag or around a branch for a travel training session. The metal plates on the straps can also be positioned behind the fingerboard, which can allow for a positive or negative incline.
Is the Problemsolver Station the best portable hangboard in 2023? I think it might just be.
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BEST RESIN PORTABLE HANGBOARD
Metolius Rock Rings
While the Metolius Rock Rings aren’t technically handboards, they are brilliant portable tools for climbing-specific training.
The Rock Rings prominently allow climbers to train contact strength (finger strength) and body tension (core strength) on the go, arguably two of the most important components to climbing-specific training.
The rings come in a pair and can either be used by hanging them on a structure, or by clipping a weight to them and lifting from the edges. They feature a jug on top and a four-finger (40mm), three-finger (32mm) and two-finger pocket (25mm).
While an advanced climber may find the edges slightly limiting, the Metolius Rock Rings really shines when it comes to offering a complete upper-body workout. Just as you might use regular gymnastic rings, the Rock Rings may be utilized for a wide variety of pull-ups (offset, wide-set, narrow), core and shoulder exercises (dead hangs, L-hand and front lever), and plenty of other exercises that will cater to your individual strength and ability.
These are also one the cheaper portable hangboards you can get your hands on. If building serious finger strength isn’t a priority, and you’re simply looking to maintain fitness while away from the gym, these could make for a great home trainer. Metolius also provides some great training guides to help you get started.
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BEST MINI HANGBOARD
YY Vertical Triangle
The Triangle might just be one the best portable hangboards currently available for travelers and climbing dirtbaggers on the road. While the Triangle is technically a training grip, like the Metolius Rock Rings, these clever little tools offer plenty of training variety.
In terms of grips, the Triangle offers 4 different edge sizes (25mm, 20mm, 15mm and monos), as well as the top jug, offering a great range of training progression and warm-up variety from such a pocket-sized training tool.
What makes this one of the best travel fingerboards is their impressively small size. Each triangle measures only 12cm x 12cm and weighs only 260g, allowing them to fit into any crag bag or rucksack with ease. I also really like these training grips that are made from recycled rubber wood, which isn’t only environmentally friendly, but also soft on your skin which allows for comfortable training compared to the resin of the Rock Rings.
For climbers that want some extra variety, the YY Penta is an upgrade from the triangle, sharing a similar design with 7 different edges and grip types.
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LIGHTWEIGHT HANGBOARD
Ash Climbing Hangboard
This Ash fingerboard is the latest addition to my portable hangboard collection.
I’m going to level with you here. If you are looking for a portable fingerboard that has a wide range of holds and edges for a varied workout, you are probably going to be disappointed. The humble Ash board has two pockets (15mm and 20mm) thanks to its reversible design, as well as a central 20mm pocket for one-armed training and lock-offs.
That said, this wooden hangboard does have a trick up its sleeve. The angle of the hanging cord, for example, can be altered to increase or decrease the intensity of your workout.
The wood is made of tulip, ash, or Sapele wood, offering a brilliant balance between grip, durability, and comfort. This also makes the Ash Hangboard very lightweight. Tipping the scales at just under 300g, this is one of the lightest portable handboard on my list. This makes the Ash an ideal travel hangboard or perfect for bringing down to the crag for a pre-climb warm-up.
If utilized well, the Ash hangboard can become a useful training tool for traveling climbers on a budget.
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SMALLEST HANGBOARD
YY Vertical The Duo
The Duo by YY Vertical is undoubtedly in the running for the title of the smallest fingerboards currently available.
Okay, so technically it is more like a mono pocket grip trainer but thanks to the 2-finger pockets (25mm edge), it’s more than capable of getting your fingers ready for a pumpy day at the crag.
Training is, of course, very limited with this little tool but it is great for warming up for those steep pockets and the finger-intensive projects in your life.
If you are looking to do a bit of climbing training whilst traveling, but don’t have space in your pack for any of the portable hangboards or training grips on this list, then The Duo might be the perfect accessory for you. They weigh just 50g and at 8cmx 5.5cm, regardless of how full your backpack is, I guarantee you will be able to squeeze these in.
Like the Triangle, the Duo is made from recycled rubber wood, allowing for comfortable and eco-conscious training.
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LIGHTWEIGHT HANGBOARD
Friction Labs Hangboard
Friction Labs’ expertise doesn’t just end with climbing chalk, they also know a thing or two about making hangboards.
At a quick glance, the Friction Labs fingerboard is similar to some of the other budget boards on my shortlist but this is one of the few fingerboards that are both portable and mountable.
While it might not have a massive variety, this portable hangboard comes with a few additional holds than the Ash board. The standard 15mm and 20mm edges are blindingly obvious, but the 15° sloper and pull-up jugs on top of the board are a nice touch to add some extra variety to your training.
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BEST FOR PINCH GRIPS
Lattice Pinch and Crimp Block
So we have spoken a lot about hangboards, which are great for finger strength, but what about pinch strength? That’s a whole different bowl game. If you want to get better at squeezing those beefy pinches, then you are going to need another tool.
The Crimp and Pinch Block is the latest toy from Lattice Training. It consists of a compact block with a handful of grip positions: 40mm jug, 20mm edge (identical to the slopped Lattice hangboard rung), 25mm positive edge and a 95mm pinch. The intention here is to attach weight to the block and lift using one of the grip positions. The progression of difficulty is determined by the amount of weight added. This block may also be hung, making it useful for one-arm hangs.
The Lattice Training company, run by pro climbers Ollie Torr and Tom Randall, is currently at the forefront of climbing sports science. Their website, Youtube channel, Facebook group and app offer a wealth of information when it comes to training. The Crimp and Pinch Block works nicely into their routines so you’ll be able to test and train in conjunction with their data set. If you love geeking out over numbers and are set on doing a regimented routine, the Lattice Crimp and Pinch Block would be our recommendation.
Though this block could be used to warm up at the crag by a more advanced climber, we would primarily recommend it for at-home use in conjunction with proper weights.
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BEST OF THE REST
Metolius Light Rail
The Metolius Light Rail is another no-frills portable fingerboard that offers a bare-bones approach to climbing training. It has two rails, although thanks to its reversible design, the Light Rail has three different edge sizes (38mm, 18mm, and 13mm)
The Light Rails is still a pretty small hangboard, measuring 18” (45.7cm) in length, although it’s certainly not as small as some of the others on this list. That said, it is actually pretty light, tipping the scales at just over half a kilo so you will have no problem lugging this around the mountain.
Once your traveling days are done, you can also wall mount this mobile hangboard with the screws provided!
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PREMIUM PORTABLE HANGBOARD
Tension Flash Board
From the makers of the Tension Board comes a portable hangboard (or more like hang-cylinder) with a really unique design. This rounded contraption hosts a pair of both flat and tapered 8mm, 10mm, 15mm, and 20mm edges with an additional pair of small pockets that can also be found at the top. Of course, you can also use it as a pull-up bar when hung at the crag too.
The best part about the Flash Board is the hanging design. Having the cord pierce through on either side means four strands reach up to the point it is hung from. This results in great stability and no tipping forward when weighted. This clever design also allows for the board to be flipped around easily in order to access all of the edges.
If the lack of pockets isn’t a deal-breaker for you, then this makes for a great mobile hangboard – Its cylindrical shape makes for a great travel fingerboard too.
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PREMIUM PORTABLE HANGBOARD
Awesome Woodys’ Cliff Board Mini
The Cliff Board Mini from the Australian company Awesome Woodys packs in a whole lot of variety in a compact design and is one of our favorite wooden hangboards.
The front side offers three different edges: 30 mm (top edge), 20 mm and 15 mm. The 30 mm is an in-cut jug, while the others are flat wooden rungs with a comfortable rounded edge. A fourth sloping 12 mm edge is located on the back. Additionally, the backside hosts a pair of 3 finger pockets (25 mm), 2 finger pockets (25mm) and monos (30mm). As if that wasn’t enough, they’ve also included 3 hand holes to be used as jugs.
The Cliff Board Mini comes with an adjustable cord that can either be doubled up or extended when hung. Its overall size comes in at a meager 340 mm x 135 mm and only weighs 550 grams. As an extra bonus, they are handcrafted from responsibly sourced plantation timber so you can feel good about using these bad boys.
You would expect this level of versatility from a traditional wall-mounted board, but the variety of edges and crimps make this one of the best portable hangboards for a comprehensive finger warm-up. This premium board does come at a premium price: 139.95 AUD (plus international shipping if applicable).
If the price doesn’t make you flinch, I think this board is a top choice. It’s well designed, well crafted, and most importantly, it delivers a great workout/warm-up at any level.
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Which Is Your Favorite Portable Hangboad?
When looking for a portable hangboard you’ll need to consider your exact needs. If you are just getting into training, the Metolius Rock rings will probably do you just fine. At their price point, they really can’t be beaten. For most experienced climbers who balance training with projecting at the crag, we think the Tension Flash Board is a great choice at a reasonable price.
We would consider the Cliff Board Mini, the Problem Solver, and the Lattice Crimp and Pinch Block to be more specialized tools. If you’ve got a bit more money to spare and are looking for specific grip types you’ll want to check out these options.
If you are looking for a more permanent setup, why not have a look at the best wooden hangboards?
When it comes to improving strength, nothing beats getting out and doing some good old climbing. However, when that’s not an option, hangboarding comes at a close second.
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Sam Laird
A lifelong climber and shoe geek. His first shoe was the OG Scarpa Helix, although his shoe collection has grown to unhealthy levels in the last 20 years. When he’s not getting shut down on V2 gym slabs, Sam is backpacking around the world in pursuit of his next big adventure.