La Sportiva FuturaTouted as a favourite by some of La Sportiva’s biggest brand ambassadors and a leader in the No-Edge revolution, the Fututra has changed the way we think about climbing shoes.
- Performance: 90% 90%
- Sensitivity: 100% 100%
- Comfort: 80% 80%
- Value For Money 85% 85%
- Total Score 88% 88%
Great at edging thanks to no-edging technology
The fast-lacing system
We Don’t Like
The price tag
Built For: Bouldering, Sport Climbing
Summary: All that separates you from the rock is a wafer thin slice of Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber, cleverly utilised using La Sportiva’s No Edge technology. The result? An aggressive climbing shoe like no other. The Futura thrives on the edges and pockets of the hardest climbs in the world.
La Sportiva Futura Review
The Futura builds on the success of the ultra-soft, slipper-style Speedster and precedes the masisvely popular Genius. Does this mean it’s essentially just a better Speedster, but an inferior version of the Genius? The answer is a resounding no. This is a shoe I have sworn by for several years now for both bouldering and sport climbing and love the features the Futura brings to the table.
All three No-Edge shoes are distinct, and despite what the price tags might suggest, each holds their own in the right context. The Speedster and the Futura are highly specialised shoes, whereas the Genius does a great job being an all-rounder.
But what even is this mysterious-sounding No-Edge technology I hear you ask? Historically, most manufacturers and gear reviews suggest what you want is some lazer-cut edge, which can stand on a dime, and cut through a block of soft cheese.
Whereas the No-Edge design goes for the complete opposite approach and follows the natural profile of your foot, rather than having a defined edge at the front and sides of the shoe. In place of a conventional edge, a thin layer of rubber is wrapped over the front of the shoe. This maintains a more constant volume throughout the toe box, allowing climbers to be in closer contact with the rock. Theoretically, this provides climbers with greater sensitivity, and improved power transmission, thanks to the ability to apply uniform pressure to footholds over a range of orientations.
Unsurprisingly given their asymmetric last and downturned profile, the Futuras feel at home on steeper problems above pads or on bolts. But the Futura really come alive when onsight climbing, where lack of rehearsal means you’re not using all the holds in the best way. For ambitious trad and sport climbers, No-Edge shoes are an onsighting secret weapon.
The soft midsole of the Futura compliments the No-Edge technology and is particularly valuable on less positive footholds, smears, shallow sloping dishes and padding paste and pray moves. Indoors, this translates to a strangely comfortable climbing experience on the kinds of holds and that most people fear, like awkward volumes, dual texture and sloping holds.
No-Edge shoes also counter-intuitively edge very well. However, most climbers will likely prefer the Genius on edges unless they have the toe strength to make up for the softer midsole. Very light climbers (<40kg) may prefer the Futuras on edges, with the softer midsole affording them greater sensitivity than the Genius.