La Sportiva Miura VS
The Miura VS may seem like the velcro version of the classic lace-up Miura, but don’t be fooled, these shoes also bring their own quirks and characteristics to the table.
- Performance: 90%
- Sensitivity: 80%
- Comfort: 80%
- Value For Money 90%
- Total Score 88%
We Like
Incredible edging
Versatile
High & low volume versions
We Don’t Like
The price tag
Small toe rand
Built For: Bouldering, Sport Climbing
Summary: The Miura VS is one of those shoes that can do it all. Whether your a beginner honing yours skills or a seasoned veteran looking to crush your project, your’e not going to be dissapointed with these shoes. While the Miura VS is certainly designed for the steeper routes in your life, the stiff Vibram makes these shoes masters of the edges too.
La Sportiva Miura VS Review
The Miura VS may seem like the velcro version of the classic lace up Miura, but don’t be fooled, these shoes also bring their own quirks and characteristics to the table. The classic Miura has been a crown jewel in La Sportiva’s long line of world-class climbing shoes for over 20 years. And while the Muria is classed as high-performance shoe, it has built a solid reputation for itself over the last few decades as one of the best all-around climbing shoes you can get your hands on.
The Miura VS is a brilliant shoe that shares many of the charactrics that made the original Miura great, but the aggressive last and stiff sole make it obvious these shoes were designed for a different task. For that exact reason, the Miura VS is a great choice for intermediate and advanced climbers looking to invest in a pair of climbing shoes that can do it all, with a focus on steep and overhanging terrain. These shoes were certainly not designed for all-day comfort, but they are one of the best edging shoes on the market and perform exceptionally well on limestone and slate walls.
1) Toe Box
The design of the Miura toe box is nothing short of genius and makes this shoe great at standing on even the smallest of holds. These shoes will make edges that you once slipped off of, or didn’t even think were possible to stand on feel like a walk in the park. This is down to a couple of great design features.
The stiff rubber, as well as the asymmetrical toe send loads of power to through your toes and are certainly contributing factors to how well the toe box performs.
But the slingshot rand and powerhinge are two pieces of intertwining engineering which really help set this shoe apart from its competitors. The tensioned slingshot rand (a single piece of rubber that wraps around the entire shoe) is connected into the powerhinge (a hole in the bottom of the sole) so that when you apply weight to your toes, the rubber stretches at the back rather than the front. This is pretty technical stuff, but all you need to know is that the clever design helps keep your weight on your toes and stick to even the smallest of footholds.
One of the biggest weaknesses of this shoe is its toe hooking ability. The toe rand is very minimal, leaving you with very little rubber to play with. I also found that the lowest velcro strap is unusually close to the toe box, which intrudes on your ability to stick a solid hook.
2) Heel
The tight fit of the Miura heel – caused by that slingshot rand – makes heel hooking feel super secure. The generously thick rubber added by La Sportiva, not only gives you a little extra protection from the rock, but also helps to stick a gnarly heel hook or two.
But the minimal heel design does have its downsides. Some Sportiva shoes, like the Solution, offer a rubber cup on the heel which helps when attempting more technical hooks. This style compared with the minimal heel of the Miura, which only has a single strip of rubber covering the back of the heel, certainly offers less ability for heel hooks.
3) Rubber
The Miura VS has Vibram rubber, something found on almost all Sportiva climbing shoes. The men’s Miura VS is made with Vibram XS edge, whereas the woman’s version uses the XS Grip 2. These rubber have varying levels of durability and stiffness. Men, theoretically being heavier, require a stiffer rubber to maximise edging performance and friction on the rock. Whereas the softer XS Grip 2 gives better levels of friction for lighter climbers. But of course, it’s a matter of preference, with many men preferring the XS Grip 2 and vice versa.
4) Comfort and Fit
La Sportiva is renowned for sizing their shoes to big, and since all their shoes are handmade, sizing may differ slightly shoe-to-shoe. With the VS you may need to downsize around 1 ½ to 2 sizes below your normal shoe size. Bear in mind that the leather will stretch after they have a bit of use.
The VS is a very stiff shoe, and we have found they take a little longer than usual to break in, so be prepared for some pain. Once broken in these shoes will stretch out and become a bit more comfortable but your feet will still need a bit of a rest after a few climbs -lucky for you, those Velcro straps make them easy to slip on and off.
The three Velcro straps that attach on opposite sides fit snug around your foot, meaning there is minimal movement and dead spots inside the shoe. The Miura VS uses the P3 Platform, so these shoes will keep their aggressive shape even after several months of hard climbing.
The Verdict
This shoe is definitely not designed for all-day comfort, but instead, it is built to give you the best climbing experience possible.
Whether you’re in the gym, crushing your latest bouldering problem or edging on a dime, the Miura VS can do it all.