Not only is it a top pick when it comes to climbing on edges and pockets, but the La Sportiva Miura is also probably one of the best climbing shoes ever made.
Indoor - 7/10
Outdoor - 9/10
Sensitivity - 6.5/10
Comfort - 7.5/10
Durability - 10/10
Value For Money - 9/10
- Great edging
- Low and high volume variations
- Laces wear fast in cracks
- Jack of all trades, master of none
- The stiff profile isn’t great for indoor climbing
The La Sportiva Miura has been a pillar of the La Sportiva line-up for over two decades and after using them for a couple of months, it’s not hard to see why. Not only is this shoe a top pick for edging and pockets, but it’s also one of the best shoes on the market, period.
Because the Miura sits on the stiffer side of the spectrum, it’s not the first shoe I turn to for dynamic indoor boulders, but when it comes to intricate footwork and small edges, the Miura’s come into their own.
Last updated on May 6th, 2023 at 03:10 am
The La Sportiva Miura is a true classic when it comes to high-end sport climbing shoes. Its staying power and popularity speak to the quality and innovation of design the shoe brought to the market when it was first introduced over 20 years ago. Along with the recent stylistic revamp of the La Sportiva line, the Miura’s now have an updated look, while still maintaining the same construction and technical features that keep climbers coming back for more.
Since the first launch of the Miura, the market for high-performing bouldering and sport climbing shoes has grown exponentially along with the continued growth of the sport in general. This has meant the introduction of specialized shoes designed for very specific angles, rock types, and climbing styles. For the Miura, this means few now choose the shoe for bouldering-specific uses, however, its edging ability and control on vertical terrain continue to stand up to the competition.
Nowadays the Miura is often sought after for its function as an all-around shoe, keeping up its performance on a wide range of terrain and styles. Depending on the sizing you go with, this shoe will be able to handle those hard sport redpoints, or if sized larger, a full day of multi-pitching. For those who enjoy technical footwork, this shoe may just be your new/old best friend.
downturn through the arch of the foot. The toe box in turn is fairly roomy, giving your toes room to scrunch up. When off the wall, however, you can expect some ridging from the toe box leather.
The baggy look of the Miura’s toe box shape may be off-putting to some, but fear not, it does actually serve a purpose! If you are used to wearing a climbing shoe at the edge of what is humanly possible to slip onto your foot, it would seem strange that a shoe touted as “high performance” would leave such a dead space in the toe region. This little extra bit of room, however, means that when applying pressure on the smallest of edges, your foot has room to crinkle up and power down.
To note as well is the La Sportiva Slingshot rand design which wraps around the back of the foot (like a slingshot) and connects the midsole. This joins up to what has been dubbed the Powerhinge. Coupled with the aggressive asymmetry, this ensures everything is focused on the very front edge of your foot.
On severe overhang, the performance of the shoe does plateau. Though it’s certainly still possible to get the job done, you may want to look for a more downturned shoe for this application if you spend the majority of your time on this kind of terrain. The Miuras do unfortunately flatten out over time, reducing their effectivity on steep angles.
The rubber toe patch on this shoe is nothing to write home about. Though its usually good enough, it doesn’t offer the same amount of coverage a competition-specific or bouldering-specific shoe will offer. If you primarily climb indoors, where toe hooks occur on a much more regular basis as compared to outdoors, then note you may struggle when those toe hooks are the slightest bit smaller or technical.
The Miura’s heel has a low-volume design which is held in place by the Slingshot rand. The rubber from the sole continues about halfway up the back of the heel cup giving it a bit more of a varied shape. Though nothing too dramatic, this small touch comes in handy on some smaller edges.
Like with all climbing shoes, depending on the shape of the foot, users may find the heel uncomfortable. Specifically, where the shoe cuts off on the back of the heel, some may find the edge of the shoe cuts into the Achilles.
An interesting difference between the men’s and women’s versions of the Miura is the addition of some light padding on the inside of the heel of the women’s model. This brings up the comfort factor, while also aiding in the fitting of the heel cup in snugness and security.
Taking into consideration weight differences, the women’s and the men’s models use different varieties of rubber. The men’s version sports the 4mm Vibram XS Edge rubber, a fairly stiff yet sticky variety. As the name indicates, this balance makes for great edging precision.
In comparison, the woman’s model is fitted with the 4mm Vibram XS Grip 2, a much softer, suppler compound. This means for a climber with less weight to apply, still gets the same level of responsiveness on edges, without losing out on control.
This consideration for body type differences is a great innovation, as climbing gear manufacturers take a more meaningful look at how it impacts the kind of performance a user gets from a product. If you’re shopping around and trying these guys on, don’t be afraid to disregard the gender labels and see what works best for you.
Comfort and Fit
Comfort may vary depending on a couple of factors: sizing, foot shape, and use. The Miura can be sized in a variety of ways depending on your intended use. For maximum all-day comfort, the Miura may be worn about a half size down from street shoe size. Though of course, you won’t be getting top-end performance at a larger size, its ability to edge and smear doesn’t drop off that drastically, making this a great multi-pitch shoe.
If, however, you are looking to take this out to the sport crag for some projecting, think of sizing them down to about a size and a half below street shoe size. They’ll feel really snug when you put them on but will stretch gradually over time by about a half size. Given their leather construction, they’ll mold to your foot, delivering the perfect fit. Note, the La Sportiva line does tend to run on the narrower end of the spectrum.
The Muiras feature a quick lacing system, making the on-and-off process a lot easier. Giving the laces one quick, firm tug is enough to secure the perfect cinched-down fit. The removal process is just as easy, doing away with a big complaint of lace-up shoes.
A velcro version of the Miura does exist, however, its construction is very different from the lace-ups. The Miura VS is a great alternative if you are hunting for a more bouldering-specific, downturned shoe.
Without a doubt, the Miura is an absolute top pick when it comes to climbing on edges, pockets, and even smearing. If you balance your climbing priorities between the sport crag and longer multi-pitch climbs, then give these a try. For an avid Miura wearer, they may even stock the shoe in different sizes, ready for all occasions.
If you stick to bouldering almost exclusively then consider buying a shoe with a more specific application. Though the Miura certainly doesn’t fall flat on steeper angles, when compared to a more downturned shoe, the difference is noticeable.
Consider trying both the women’s and the men’s versions of the shoe. The difference in volume and rubber sensitivity may allow you to squeeze out even more performance. If the shoe fits, you’ll be raving about them in no time.
If you have enjoyed our La Sportiva Miura Women’s review, make sure to check them out on REI here.