La Sportiva Miura

Not only is it a top pick when it comes to climbing on edges, pockets and even smearing, but it’s also probably one of the best shoes on the market, period.

  • Performance: 95% 95%
  • Sensitivity: 80% 80%
  • Comfort: 85% 85%
  • Value For Money 90% 90%
  • Total Score 89% 89%

We Like

 Great edging
 Versatile 
 Low and high volume P3 Platform

We Don’t Like

 Laces wear fast in cracks
Jack of all trades, master of none

Built For: Bouldering, Sport Climbing

Summary: The Miura has been one of the pillars of the La Sportiva line-up for over two decades, and after using them for a couple of months, it’s not hard to see why. Not only is this shoe a top pick for edging and pockets, but it’s also one of the best shoes on the market, period.

La Sportiva Miura Women’s Review

 

The La Sportiva Miura is a true classic when it comes to high end sport climbing shoes. It’s staying power and popularity speaks to the quality and innovation of design the shoe brought to the market when it was first introduced over 10 years ago. Along with the recent stylistic revamp of the La Sportiva line, the Miura’s now have an updated look, while still maintaining the same construction and technical features that keep climbers coming back for more.

Since that first launch of the design, the market for high performing bouldering and sport climbing shoes has grown exponentially along with continued growth of the sport in general. This has meant the introduction of specialized shoes designed for very specific angles, rock types and climbing styles. For the Miura this means few now choose the shoe for bouldering specific uses, however, it’s edging ability and control on vertical terrain continues to stand up to the competition.

Now a days the Miura is often sought after for its function as an all around shoe, keeping up it’s performance on a wide range of terrain and styles. Depending on the sizing you go with, this shoe will be able to handle those hard sport redpoints, or if sized larger, a full day of multipitching. For those who enjoy technical foot work, this shoe may just be your new/old best friend.

1) Toe Box

downturn through the arch of the foot. The toe box in turn is fairly roomy, giving your toes room to scrunch up. When off the wall however, you can expect some ridging from the toe box leather.

The baggy look of the Miura’s toe box shape may be off putting to some, but fear not, it does actually serve a purpose! If you are used to wearing a climbing shoe at the edge of what is humanly possible to slip onto your foot, it would seem strange that a shoe touted as “high performance” would leave such a dead space in the toe region. This little extra bit of room, however, means that when applying pressure on the smallest of edges, your foot has room to crinkle up and power down.

To note as well, is the La Sportiva Slingshot rand design which wraps around the back of the foot (like a sling shot) and connects the mid sole. This joins up to what has been dubbed the Powerhinge. Coupled with the aggressive asymmetry, this ensures everything is focused to the very front edge of your foot.

On severe overhang, the performance of the shoe does plateau. Though it’s certainly still possible to get the job done, you may want to look for a more downturned shoe for this application if you spend the majority of your time on this kind of terrain. The Miura’s do unfortunately flatten out overtime, reducing their effectivity on steep angles.

The rubber toe patch on this shoe is nothing to write home about. Though its usually good enough, it doesn’t offer the same amount of coverage a competition specific or bouldering specific shoe will offer. If you primarily climb indoors, where toe hooks occur on much more regular basis as compared to outdoors, than note you may struggle when those toe hooks are the slightest bit smaller or technical.

2) Heel

The Miura’s heel has a low volume design which is held in place by the Slingshot rand. The rubber from the sole continues about half way up the back of the heel cup giving it a bit more of a varied shape. Though nothing too dramatic, this small touch comes in handy on some smaller edges.

Like with all climbing shoes, depending on the shape of the foot, users may find the heel uncomfortable. Specifically, where the shoe cuts off on the back of the heel, some may find the edge of the shoes cuts into the achilles.

An interesting difference between the men’s and women’s version of the Miura, is the addition of some light padding on the inside of the heel of the women’s model. This brings up the comfort factor, while also aiding in the fitting of the heel cup in snugness and security.

3) Rubber

Taking into consideration weight differences, the women’s and the men’s model use different varieties of rubber. The men’s version sports the 4mm Vibram XS Edge rubber, a fairly stiff yet sticky variety. As the name indicates, this balance makes for great edging precision.

In comparison the woman’s model is fitted with the 4mm Vibram XS Grip2, a much softer, suppler compound. This means for a climber with less weight to apply, they still get the same level of responsiveness on edges, without losing out on control.

This consideration for body type differences is a great innovation, as climbing gear manufacturers take a more meaningful look at how it impacts the kind of performance a user gets from a product. If you’re shopping around and trying these guys on, don’t be afraid to disregard the gender labels and see what works best for you.

4) Comfort and Fit

Comfort may vary depending on a couple factors: sizing, foot shape and use. The Miura can be sized in a variety of ways depending on your intended use. For maximum all-day comfort the Miura may be worn about a half size down from street shoe size. Though of course, you won’t be getting top end performance at a larger size, it’s ability to edge and smear doesn’t drop off that drastically, making this a great multipitch shoe.

If, however, you are looking to take this out to the sport crag for some projecting, think of sizing them down to about a size and a half below street shoe size. They’ll feel real snug when you put them on, but will stretch gradually over time by about a half size. Given their leather construction, they’ll mold to your foot, delivering the perfect fit. Note, the La Sportiva line does tend to run on the narrower end of the spectrum.

The Muiras feature a quick lacing system, making the on and off process a lot easier. Giving the laces one quick, firm tug is enough to secure the perfect cinched down fit. The removal process is just as easy, doing away with a big complaint of lace up shoes.

A velcro version of the Miura does exist, however its construction is very different from the lace ups. The Miura VS are a great alternative if your hunting for a more bouldering specific, downturned shoe.

The Verdict

Without a doubt the Miura is an absolute top pick when it comes to climbing on edges, pockets and even smearing. If you balance your climbing priorities between the sport crag and longer multipitch climbs, then give these a try. For an avid Miura wearer, they may even stock the shoe in different sizes, ready for all occasions.

If you stick to bouldering almost exclusively than consider buying a shoe with a more specific application. Though the Miura certainly doesn’t fall flat on steeper angles, when compared to a more downturned shoe, the difference is noticeable.

Consider trying both the women’s and the men’s version of the shoe. The difference in volume and rubber sensitivity, may allow you to squeeze out even more performance. If the shoe fits, you’ll be raving about them in no time.

If you have enjoyed our La Sportiva Miura Women’s review, make sure to check them out on Amazon here! 

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