Just picked up climbing and looking for a pair of shoes that will outlast your beginner phase? Or maybe you like to spend your time grumbling up cracks. Or perhaps you’re just on a tight budget and need to make your next pair of climbing shoes last. Whatever the reason, we’ll take a look at the best, most durable climbing shoes currently available.
The unfortunate truth is that in order for climbing shoes to perform, they have to be constructed with relatively thin material which will eventually wear through. Typically the first area to go will be the rubber on the sole and the toe. This may be prevented if caught early enough with a resole, but there are a few tricks you can do yourself to extend the life of your rubber too. Next up, the lacing or velcro may take some damage due to abrasion or simply from the high tension they hold.
When looking for a durable shoe, you will want to think about how they balance out performance with durability and what you can do to minimize wear. Lets dive in.
The Sportiva Mythos are an oldie but a goodie. They have been around for almost three decades with very few changes to the original design. This was a groundbreaking shoe in its day and could be spotted on the feet of top competitive climbers. Nowadays, the Mythos are typically used by tradsters looking for all-day comfort on easy to moderate terrain.
Given that they feel most at home on cracks, the Mythos can take a real beating. They’re equipped with beefy laces and rubber running up the sides so you’ll be decently protected when jamming. They take no time to break in and will mold to your foot due to its leather upper. And don’t worry, once you’ve worn through the durable 4mm Vibram XS Edge rubber they’ll take well to a resole. We have found that the Mythos can take up to 5+ resoles before needing a permanent retirement. Not bad!
For women: The women’s Mythos shares very similar characteristics to the men’s shoes. The main difference, apart for the smaller size range, is the rubber. The Women’s version uses the XS Edge, a stiffer Vibram compound designed for big-wall and multi-pitch climbing. You can find the women’s version here.
This moderately high cut boot is constructed with durability in mind. But then again, we wouldn’t expect anything less from Scarpa. The Maestro Mid is a high performing crack climbing machine intended to take the pain out of the most uncomfortable of jams. It’s got a moderately aggressive shape with an asymmetrical and flat last, supported by a tensioned rand for extra support. They’ll keep you and your ankles well protected in the heinous of cracks.
We love the attention to detail in this shoe. This comes through on the side stitching on the leather upper. In addition, Scarpa has chosen to hide away the eyelets of the laces under the leather, protecting them from abrasion. The Maestro Mid are also equipped with 4mm Vibram XS Edge rubber.
We think the Meastro’s performance rivals that of the TC Pro, with a more durable construction (TC Pros are known to suffer from lacing failure and delamination). This shoe also comes in an “eco” version using natural dyes. That’s a plus in our books.
For women: Scarpa has released a women’s version of the Maestro Mid too.
The La Sportiva Tarantulas are a common sight in modern climbing gyms as more and more people take to the sport. They make for a great beginner shoe and are a popular pick due to their durability and relative performance. They’ve got a fairly neutral profile and medium stiff sole. They fit most feet fairly well, leaving no dead space behind and molding to your foot as they break in. This is thanks to the unlined leather upper.
The most durable feature of this shoe is the rubber. When starting it can take a while to learn how to be precises with your feat, but the Tarantulas are ready to stick it out for the duration of that learning curve. The’ve been equipped with a thick 5mm FriXion RS rubber with medium stiffness. This does come with the compromise of reduced sensitivity, so you may even find that you out grow the shoe’s performance level before they ever break down. For the same reasons, the Tarantulas can also be a popular pick for gym training and high mileage sessions.
If durability is the priority and you plan on eking out every ounce of use from these shoes, we would recommend going with the velcro version. The thin material holding the laces in are bound to snap relatively quickly, when compared to the metal attachment point of the velcro straps.
For Women: The women’s version of the Tarantula is almost identical, expect is uses the Women’s RL45 last, designed to fit the narrower and less arched foot.
The Black Diamond Momentum fulfills a similar purpose as the Tarantulas. As a relatively new kid to the block, the Momentums have proven to be another great choice for new climbers. They’ve got a very similar profile with a flat, moderately stiff sole. You’ll get a similar level of performance and durability due to its rubber thickness and compound (in this case, the 4.3mm NeoFriction).
The advantage the Momentum has over the Tarantula is material choice for the upper. While leather tends to retain moisture and is quick to buildup stench, Black Diamond’s innovative knit technology remains light and breezy. They also added a hemp liner to the toe box, which helps wick away sweat where it matters the most.
For most shoe designers, when creating a high-end performer durability is assumed to be a given compromise. Using uber soft and sensitive rubbers and extra light materials means for a quick break-in, but also a quick break down in performance. When it comes to the La Sportiva Katana, that is not the case.
This is an unlined leather shoe with a high degree of downturn and moderate asymmetry. This is backed with La Sportiva’s patented P3 system (Permanent Power Plantform) so it’ll keep it’s aggressive downturned shape throughout the life of the shoe. This shoe shines when edging. It’s 4mm Vibram XS Edge rubber will inspire confidence on the smallest of holds. The Katanas are also often used as a seceret weapon when it comes to small cracks. Additionally, the lacing system is well reinforced and after may uses, has yet to show any signs of wear.
For such a high end shoe we a thoroughly impressed with the Katana. It’s a true powerhouse that may just come to replace all the other in your quiver. You can read our full Katana review here.
Durability can mean different things to different climbers. For a beginner who’s going to put their shoes through the ringer, we would highly recommend going with either the Momentum or the Tarantulas. Though their performance isn’t all that impressive, we think that’s just fine when your honing your skills. Seriously, these things are meant to take a beating!
For the more experienced climber that doesn’t want to be buying a new pair 4-5 months, your pick will depend on your preference of terrain. We love the Katanas for their durability and performance and feel they shine on all types of terrain. However, their ultra aggressive fit may not be for everyone.
Whatever your style of choice is, keeping your footwork squeaky clean, and resoling your shoes when needed really is your best defence against durability issues. While these may be some of the most durable climbing shoe on the market, eventually they will break down. Treat your shoes well, and they’ll reward you with longevity!