SCARPA VELOCITY V REVIEW
The brief the design boffins at Scarpa had with the Velocity V was to “build a shoe that offers unrivaled comfort, climbing ability and value.” So, did they achieve this I hear you ask? Well, if you are looking for a reliable, all-round climbing shoe that isn’t going to break the bank, this could be the one for you.
Before we get into the details, if you don’t understand any of the technical terms mentioned throughout this review, make sure to take a look out our climbing shoe guide.
I bought my Velocity V’s six months ago because I was looking for a back-up pair of shoes that offered comfort for all-day climbing as well as something I could use in the gym. In all honesty, I limited my expectations for these shoes, as they are some of the cheapest climbing shoes on the market.
However, I am happy to report I was pleasantly surprised by the performance of Scrapa’s budget shoe. While it is clear that the shoe is designed with the beginner climber in mind, and certainly lacks the performance of more expensive Scrape models, the Velocity V holds its own in the gym and outside too.
The upper is made from Microfibre synthetic suede and the tongue consists of a mesh netting, which both help to create a breathable and comfortable climbing shoe. I really like the mesh netting tongue and is definitely a bonus after a sweaty day of climbing in the gym.
Not only does the suede upper make these shoes rather comfortable but it also guarantees next to no stretch once they have been broken in. This makes sizing the Velcotiy very easy, which is great. Here’s a quick look at some of the stand out Velocity V’s standout features.
1) Toe Box
I’m not going to lie to you, the Velocity toe box is certainly not going to rock your world. In fact, it is probably the weakest link the Scarpa Velocity V performance.
That said, the neutral nature of the shoe creates a flat toe box that is perfect for beginners looking to build their confidence and hone their footwork skills. This, combined with rigid sole makes edging easy and gives the user the ability to balance on the smallest of edges.
The toe rand has minimal design and friction, which makes technical heel hooks tricky. Again, this won’t be an issue for beginners and will be more than enough if you are new to the sport and just looking to get started in your climbing training.
The heel cup is similar to those found on other entry level Scarpa shoes. The rubber of the sole wraps around the heel to provide a heel designed for elementary heel hooks. I am also happy to report that I haven’t experienced movement in the heel, which can be a common issue for budget climbing shoes.
However, the heel rand would certainly benefit from a more technical design to deliver a bit more friction and to be maximised for heel hooks.
Again, for a beginner who is looking to learn the basics of climbing, this heel will definitely do the job.
The Vision rubber is one of Scarpa’s trademark rubbers, designed to for maximum friction and durability in on both rock and plastic walls.
Given the price of the shoe, I was impressed at the stickiness of the Velocity V rubber. After a few initial sessions to break in the shoe, I found the rubber to be more than satisfactory for indoor bouldering and sport climbing. I’ve also noticed that the rubber hasn’t worn as much as some of the other shoes I wear regularly, which is great.
The medium flex of the sole also provides a great balance of support and flexibility. This is especially good for beginners who are just getting used to putting their weight on their toes. The stiffness of the sole also makes edging very easy, an essential skill any beginner needs to master.
4) Comfort and Fit
The FF last is a regular for some of Scrapa’s most popular beginner shoes such as the Helix, Origin and Force V. And while the Velocity V might not have reputation of some of Scarpa’s front runners, this shoe certainly makes up for that in comfort. The flat design of the last gives you the ability to wear them for long periods of time with next to no discomfort – which is no small feat for climbing shoes.
The opposite facing velcro straps on the Velocity V create a simple, yet effective, closure that guarantees a sturdy and secure fit. I have tried my fair share of velcro climbing shoes and very few compare to the secure fit that the Velocity V provides.
The great thing about these shoes is that the synthetic materials will have minimal stretch in them, so buy them to fit! For more help on shoe sizes, take a look here.
I typically wear a street size 10 shoe and I found that the size in the Velocity V fit me perfectly.
Overall, the Velocity V is a solid shoe for climbers at various levels of abilities. For beginners looking to advance their climbing skills, this shoe offers a good balance of comfort and performance, while for more advanced climber the shoe offers a solid all-round shoe at a price you can’t argue with. While this shoe is one of the cheaper in the Scrapa range, it certainly shouldn’t be overlooked as a quality piece of kit.
If you have enjoyed our Scarpa Velocity V review, you can get your hands on them right now from Amazon!